On Passage - Recife to Salvador
21/03/08 22:22
16th March 2008
I had planned to leave earlier but there were still a few things to do. The crew from Northern Star dinghied over to say goodbye. At 08:50 we dropped the mooring off P.I.C. and proceeded to sea clearing the harbour at 09:36. Next stop Rio de Janeiro. I enjoyed the 10 days in Recife and would certainly visit again.
Passing Point Zero outward bound from Recife.
The cruise line Pacific on her way in.
A last view of Olinda.
The wind was SE 2-3 and we motor sailed till 10:15. The strategy was to get outside the 100m depth contour to be well clear of any fishermen. For the rest of the day and through the night the wind was variable in speed and direction. We resorted to the engine several times. At sunset the two 38 story apartment blocks adjacent to P.I.C. were still visible.
17th March 2008
We passed quite a few big ships during the night but no fishermen. There were also frequent rain squalls. Those that hit us were quite nasty with gusts in one reaching 30 knots. Ideally the boat can be reefed down before they hit but this is not always possible. Particularly at night.
During the day we had variable but mostly easterly winds F2-3. There were several calms when we used the engine. Progress was poor with a noon run of only 60 miles.
There seemed to be a lot of aquatic activity with schools of fish frequently jumping out of the water, presumably to evade predators. Late in the afternoon the wind steadied from the east and we were able to sail slowly through the night.
18th March 2008
Dawn saw more rain squalls. Some hit us and some passed close. All bought strong winds for short periods requiring frequent sail handling.
An angry looking rain squall approaching.
During the morning the wind was variable F1-2 and we mostly motor sailed. The noon run was another paltry 59 miles. At that speed and in those conditons we did not have enough fuel to reach Rio. After working the numbers I decided to divert to Salvador some 280 miles away.
There was no improvement during the afternoon and we mostly motorsailed. The only usable wind was near squalls.
19th March 2008
After motoring through the early hours and much of the previous day we had a better noon run of 95.1 miles. By 10:00 there was sufficient wind to sail.
We had winds of F6 during one squall but outside these the wind was mainly easterly at F4. It was mainly cloudy and somewhat cooler. These conditions persisted throughout the night and we had to reef down to 3 in the main and the staysail during squalls. During the night the main was usually reefed to 2 or 3 as a safety precaution should be be caught by a sudden squall.
20th March 2008
Conditions were broadly similar during the morning and our noon run was 89.3 miles, mostly under sail. During the afternoon we motor sailed from time to time when the wind eased but we continued to make good progress towards Salvador.
Sunset was particularly spectacular.
There was no respite from the squalls which continued through the night.
21st March 2008
During the morning we closed on the coast under sail in squally conditions. Be noon we were close to Salvador with a run of 85 miles.
Approaching Salvador from the north east.
At 12:53 we passed Punta San Antonio light inbound to Salvador.
A violent squall passed through as we entered Bahia de Todos os Santos where the port of Salvador is located.
At 13:45 we were off Bahia marina.
This is a modern purpose built marina and the first I have seen with security on the seaward side. We were required to report in on radio and identify ourselves before proceeding in.
With the help of two marinheiros we were secure at Pontoon C, Berth 89 at 14:30. This marina cost R$52 per night which is expensive for Brazil. It is a secure compound complete with chandlers, numerous restaurants and good facilities. However it suffers from surge to such an extent that the outer pontoon had been damaged and was not in normal use.
Bahia Marina is about a 15 minute work from the elevator which connects the upper and lower parts of old Salvador. However the Rough Guide has this to say about Avenida do Contorno which is the main road passing the marina. "Give this road a miss. It's dangerous even in daylight when gangs lie in wait for tourists who don't know any better".
After evening fell, around 19:00, I decided to take a taxi up to the Cidade Alta. It was weird. Very poorly light with shadowy figures lurking in doorways. I thought I was on the set of a George Romero film and decided, much to the puzzlement of the driver, to go straight back to the marina. Not a good start to my visit to Salvador.
Trip Summary:
Distance: 416.4 miles. Av Speed: 3.31 knots. Duration: 5 days 5 hours 40 min.
I had planned to leave earlier but there were still a few things to do. The crew from Northern Star dinghied over to say goodbye. At 08:50 we dropped the mooring off P.I.C. and proceeded to sea clearing the harbour at 09:36. Next stop Rio de Janeiro. I enjoyed the 10 days in Recife and would certainly visit again.
Passing Point Zero outward bound from Recife.
The cruise line Pacific on her way in.
A last view of Olinda.
The wind was SE 2-3 and we motor sailed till 10:15. The strategy was to get outside the 100m depth contour to be well clear of any fishermen. For the rest of the day and through the night the wind was variable in speed and direction. We resorted to the engine several times. At sunset the two 38 story apartment blocks adjacent to P.I.C. were still visible.
17th March 2008
We passed quite a few big ships during the night but no fishermen. There were also frequent rain squalls. Those that hit us were quite nasty with gusts in one reaching 30 knots. Ideally the boat can be reefed down before they hit but this is not always possible. Particularly at night.
During the day we had variable but mostly easterly winds F2-3. There were several calms when we used the engine. Progress was poor with a noon run of only 60 miles.
There seemed to be a lot of aquatic activity with schools of fish frequently jumping out of the water, presumably to evade predators. Late in the afternoon the wind steadied from the east and we were able to sail slowly through the night.
18th March 2008
Dawn saw more rain squalls. Some hit us and some passed close. All bought strong winds for short periods requiring frequent sail handling.
An angry looking rain squall approaching.
During the morning the wind was variable F1-2 and we mostly motor sailed. The noon run was another paltry 59 miles. At that speed and in those conditons we did not have enough fuel to reach Rio. After working the numbers I decided to divert to Salvador some 280 miles away.
There was no improvement during the afternoon and we mostly motorsailed. The only usable wind was near squalls.
19th March 2008
After motoring through the early hours and much of the previous day we had a better noon run of 95.1 miles. By 10:00 there was sufficient wind to sail.
We had winds of F6 during one squall but outside these the wind was mainly easterly at F4. It was mainly cloudy and somewhat cooler. These conditions persisted throughout the night and we had to reef down to 3 in the main and the staysail during squalls. During the night the main was usually reefed to 2 or 3 as a safety precaution should be be caught by a sudden squall.
20th March 2008
Conditions were broadly similar during the morning and our noon run was 89.3 miles, mostly under sail. During the afternoon we motor sailed from time to time when the wind eased but we continued to make good progress towards Salvador.
Sunset was particularly spectacular.
There was no respite from the squalls which continued through the night.
21st March 2008
During the morning we closed on the coast under sail in squally conditions. Be noon we were close to Salvador with a run of 85 miles.
Approaching Salvador from the north east.
At 12:53 we passed Punta San Antonio light inbound to Salvador.
A violent squall passed through as we entered Bahia de Todos os Santos where the port of Salvador is located.
At 13:45 we were off Bahia marina.
This is a modern purpose built marina and the first I have seen with security on the seaward side. We were required to report in on radio and identify ourselves before proceeding in.
With the help of two marinheiros we were secure at Pontoon C, Berth 89 at 14:30. This marina cost R$52 per night which is expensive for Brazil. It is a secure compound complete with chandlers, numerous restaurants and good facilities. However it suffers from surge to such an extent that the outer pontoon had been damaged and was not in normal use.
Bahia Marina is about a 15 minute work from the elevator which connects the upper and lower parts of old Salvador. However the Rough Guide has this to say about Avenida do Contorno which is the main road passing the marina. "Give this road a miss. It's dangerous even in daylight when gangs lie in wait for tourists who don't know any better".
After evening fell, around 19:00, I decided to take a taxi up to the Cidade Alta. It was weird. Very poorly light with shadowy figures lurking in doorways. I thought I was on the set of a George Romero film and decided, much to the puzzlement of the driver, to go straight back to the marina. Not a good start to my visit to Salvador.
Trip Summary:
Distance: 416.4 miles. Av Speed: 3.31 knots. Duration: 5 days 5 hours 40 min.
On Passage - Fortaleza to Recife
05/03/08 22:02
Earlier in Passage
1st March 2008
Around 04:00 we were hit by a series of angry line squalls with very heavy rain. At least the sails got a good wash.
As the squalls passed the wind veered SE F5-6 with short choppy seas and clear skies. This was going to be hard work as our course was bang into the wind. Fortaleza was only 1.5 days away in these conditions and for a moment I toyed with the idea of turning around.
We pressed on assuming that once round Cabo Calcanhar the wind would be more manageable. We had to get round first though. Between 04:00 and 16:00 we made only 14 miles to windward. with another 20 miles to go until our course change. To make life easier I chose to go back inshore of some fish farms and a buoyed rock. Fortunately there were no fishing boats. We had to tack frequently throughout the night.
2nd March 2008
We rounded Cabo Calcanhar in the early hours. Finally. At 08:00 we had covered only 80 miles in 2 days.
Tacking continued throughout the day and by evening it was going well with much better net gains on our course just east of south.
Around sunset a motorised fishing boat approached quite rapidly. Having read several reports of piracy by fisherman on this coast I became very nervous and ducked down below to hide my passport and credit cards. The boat closed to within about 60m with the 4 crew gesticulating and pointing ahead. I think they were indicating that I should alter course to clear an area where they wanted to work. Phew, thank goodness.
I altered 90º to port and went a further 8 miles out to sea.
Later we had more line squalls follwed by a drop in wind speed. During the night progress towards Recife slowed considerably.
3rd March 2008
At 07:15 we were off Natal and the wind dropped to light and variable with the sails flapping uselessly. After bobbing about for an hour and a half I put the engine on and we continued south.
At 11:00 some wind returned. SE3, and we resumed sailing under full rig. We were able to make good ground to the south on each tack but at a cost of going to within 2 miles of land. Noon run 59.3 miles.
By motor sailing we could gain another 10º to windward and avoid tacking. I put the engine on and we motorsailed throughout the night going well out to sea.
4th March 2008
We continued motorsailing throughout the night and morning until rounding Cabo Branco at 12:00 when we could resume sailing. Noon Run 78.38.
It was downhill now with lighter winds SE 3-4. We had a very relaxing sail and at midnight Recife was only 17.5 miles away.
5th March 2008
There was no question of going into Recife at night so we sailed slowly down the coast. Inshore there was a huge array of lights from small fishing boats strung out along the 20 m depth contour. A cruise ship slowly made it's way past this display before resuming full speed north.
The wind gradually eased and at 03:30 we were 8 miles off Recife. Course was altered for the south end of Banco Ingles. An hour later there was no wind and we motored slowly in passing Banco Ingles at 06:15 having had a good view of Olinda light on the way.
1st March 2008
Around 04:00 we were hit by a series of angry line squalls with very heavy rain. At least the sails got a good wash.
As the squalls passed the wind veered SE F5-6 with short choppy seas and clear skies. This was going to be hard work as our course was bang into the wind. Fortaleza was only 1.5 days away in these conditions and for a moment I toyed with the idea of turning around.
We pressed on assuming that once round Cabo Calcanhar the wind would be more manageable. We had to get round first though. Between 04:00 and 16:00 we made only 14 miles to windward. with another 20 miles to go until our course change. To make life easier I chose to go back inshore of some fish farms and a buoyed rock. Fortunately there were no fishing boats. We had to tack frequently throughout the night.
2nd March 2008
We rounded Cabo Calcanhar in the early hours. Finally. At 08:00 we had covered only 80 miles in 2 days.
Tacking continued throughout the day and by evening it was going well with much better net gains on our course just east of south.
Around sunset a motorised fishing boat approached quite rapidly. Having read several reports of piracy by fisherman on this coast I became very nervous and ducked down below to hide my passport and credit cards. The boat closed to within about 60m with the 4 crew gesticulating and pointing ahead. I think they were indicating that I should alter course to clear an area where they wanted to work. Phew, thank goodness.
I altered 90º to port and went a further 8 miles out to sea.
Later we had more line squalls follwed by a drop in wind speed. During the night progress towards Recife slowed considerably.
3rd March 2008
At 07:15 we were off Natal and the wind dropped to light and variable with the sails flapping uselessly. After bobbing about for an hour and a half I put the engine on and we continued south.
At 11:00 some wind returned. SE3, and we resumed sailing under full rig. We were able to make good ground to the south on each tack but at a cost of going to within 2 miles of land. Noon run 59.3 miles.
By motor sailing we could gain another 10º to windward and avoid tacking. I put the engine on and we motorsailed throughout the night going well out to sea.
4th March 2008
We continued motorsailing throughout the night and morning until rounding Cabo Branco at 12:00 when we could resume sailing. Noon Run 78.38.
It was downhill now with lighter winds SE 3-4. We had a very relaxing sail and at midnight Recife was only 17.5 miles away.
5th March 2008
There was no question of going into Recife at night so we sailed slowly down the coast. Inshore there was a huge array of lights from small fishing boats strung out along the 20 m depth contour. A cruise ship slowly made it's way past this display before resuming full speed north.
The wind gradually eased and at 03:30 we were 8 miles off Recife. Course was altered for the south end of Banco Ingles. An hour later there was no wind and we motored slowly in passing Banco Ingles at 06:15 having had a good view of Olinda light on the way.